Back to the Hill Country, Part 2

The rain that I spent so much time trying to outrun on Saturday caught right back up with me on Sunday morning and I awoke to the sound of a light, misting rain sighing on the top of my tent.  It was going to be a wet and cold ride on the way home.  Oh, boy...

As much fun as the Hill Country roads can be they can also be pretty treacherous in the rain so I decided to play it safe and take US 90 back to San Antonio.  I also decided to take my time and enjoy the ride as much as I could which in this case meant stopping regularly to take pictures, read historical markers and, to be honest, warm up.  

Texas is full of incredible views, significant historical sites and locations.  It is also full of the strange and just plain odd.  It is also one of the few places you are ever likely to find a combination liquor store and gun shop.  Like this one in Uvalde:

Don't get the wrong idea, there is a lot more to Uvalde than this, there are also some very interesting buildings and historical markers scattered throughout the city. 


Like so many of the towns I passed though in this part of Texas, it seems that not only was there a building boom between the late 1890's and the late 1920's but that a good portion of those buildings have been preserved and are still in use.  This is so unlike Houston where anything more than a few years old seems to get bulldozed as quickly as possible.  Here are a few examples, such as the Leader-News building built just after the turn of the last century (1907, I believe):

The "neo-classically" styled courthouse was built in the 20's and looks like it could be on a college campus somewhere. Two me, it is one of the prettier courthouses I have seen.

But the most impressive of the building in downtown Uvalde is the Grand Opera House built in 1891.  I don't think it is still in use for its original purpose but it is still beautiful and beautifully preserved.  The roof is copper and there is a turret window on the east side of the building.  The dragon weather vane looks more like something from Dracula's castle than a Texas opera house.     

I know it is a little weird, but this building seems to really exude age and history.  It is a little magical in that way.  There are not many times I have felt that kind of vibe and most of those were in places like Paris (France, not Texas) where the history is measured in centuries instead of decades.  Uvalde definitely deserves a little more time for exploration at some point.


Once I was warmed up and ready to ride again I headed east towards Sabinal.  Just west of town I found this abandoned structure.  

I missed the marker, but I believe these are the remains of a cavalry camp founded in 1856 that was used by the Texas Rangers, as well as the Confederate and U.S. armies as a base to protect the area from bandits and raiders.  


The town of Sabinal itself also has a number of historical markers and interesting sites but this one in particular caught my eye.  

Built in 1907 and, based on the cars in the parking lot (OK, and to be honest the web site too), this Methodist Church is still in use today.  It is a beautiful little church.

A bit further down the road I stopped in the town of D'Hanis.  Other than the cars, this is one main street that seems to be almost unchanged since it was built in the early 1900's.  The Koch Hotel, built in 1906, still serves as a Bed & Breakfast.

Downtown D'Hanis also boasts a steakhouse and saloon, bank and market:

D'Hanis was my last photo stop on the way home.  There was still so much more that I wanted to explore on this part of US 90 but time, the weather and the need to get back home conspired to drive me at a faster pace than I was able to maintain with these stops and explorations.  I hope to pass through here again on my wanderings and when I do I will stop and see some more of the sites along the way.  

Hang in There

-Buddha

Back to the Hill Country, Part 1

I love the Texas Hill Country.  I have loved the Hill Country since the first time I visited, even before I had ever thought about motorcycles or riding.  I really cannot not explain what it is either.  I just know that this part of Texas calls to me like no other.  Once, in another century, I wanted to live there.  I thought I wanted it more than anything but if I did not find a way to move there in the last thirty some odd years I guess I really did not want it all that badly after all.  It could also be that somewhere deep down I was afraid that if I did live there it would lose some of its magic...that it would become ordinary.

Whatever the reasons for not moving there, it is a rare occasion that I pass up the opportunity to visit, especially if that visit involves riding a motorcycle.  So, when a certain editor for a certain local motorcycle magazine (see the links on the right for a hint) asked me to cover the Three Sisters Rally I jumped at the chance.  The fact that this would probably be the last weekend I could get away for a while probably added something to that jump as well.  After all a grandson being born and graduation and prom for my Baby Girl take precedence over...well pretty much everything.

As it seems to do so much these days, work issues (gremlins, I am convinced) tried to prevent my going.  Once again, the great group of folks I work with and my own hardheaded determination won out and the issue was resolved in time for me to head out early Saturday morning even if it was not nearly as early as I had planned.  I even made time to check the local weather forecast for both home and my destination, Camp Wood.

Every time I head out on one of my two wheeled adventures I seem to learn something and this was no exception.  Next time, check the weather for the locations along the route as well...just about the time I left Katy the clouds which I assumed, based on the forecasts would burn off, opened up on me.

I rechecked the forecast for Camp Wood and decided to push on.  Surely, this would end soon.

It did...about a hundred and thirty miles later.  When I reached San Antonio...

Even with the rain and gas stops, I was able to average about 62 miles per hour.  Which means the Iron Butt I am planning later this summer to raise money for the Intrepid Fallen Heroes Fund is doable and should take sixteen to seventeen hours.  More on this in a later post.

The weather finally cleared up on the west side of San Antonio and as the temperatures rose out so did my spirits.  By the time I made the rally, checked in with the organizer and set up camp I was not only completely dry but I was also warm.  The sun was actually a little too hot on my bald head as I once again forgot a cap.  Like I said I learn something every time but sometimes it is a remedial lesson.

I was also getting a bit hungry so I headed off to find a place to grab a bite.  Somehow, somewhere along they way I forgot my purpose and spent a great couple of hours riding RR337 between Camp Wood and Leakey.

Low blood sugar and the low fuel light forced a couple of stops in Leakey and, yes, the people were just as nice this time around.  This really has to be one of the friendliest towns in Texas!  With rider and ride refueled and rested I headed out again.

This time I headed south, back towards Uvalde.  This allowed me to explore some new roads I had not ridden before and even take some pretty neat pictures.

The pictures really do not do justice to the incredible scenery.  The colors were amazing.  The green of the new leaves was as vibrant and beautiful as any flower and then there were the flowers...

There was a scattering of Blue Bonnets as well as some "purty yeller ones" but it was the purple ones that blew me away.  I have no clue what they are but here is a close up of one of the plants for any of you who might be in the know on such things.

One of the best (and worst) aspects of riding is that all your senses are engaged.  You don't just see the sunshine; you feel it as it warms your back or face.  You don't just see the flowers; you smell them too and these smelled wonderful.  As I topped a hill I saw a field completely covered in a blanket of these purple wonders and the smell nearly knocked me off the back of the bike.  It was wonderful (yes, I know I am short on expletives as well as stature) as I stopped to take some pictures an image of Dorothy and her companions falling asleep in the field of poppies flashed through my head.  Nevertheless, I knew I had to stop and smell the...well, whatever they are.

Again, the pictures do not adequately capture the vibrancy of the color or the real beauty of the views but I did my best.

This road not only offered some great experiences it also took me back into cell phone coverage so I could call Wonderful Wife and tell her I had arrived safely and goodnight.  I love her dearly, but it was 50 miles one way to get to into coverage and once I got back to Camp Wood I would not be leaving again until morning.

Next up, the ride home...

Hang in there.

-Buddha

Thunder in the Hill Country

So far, 2010 has been one crazy year.  It has been full of some real highs and some real lows but high or low there has been more stress this year than I can ever remember.  Work issues, financial issues, health issues, family problems, you name it I have had it this year.  It was really getting to be a little too much and I needed to get away and blow off some steam; really cut loose and let my hair down (figuratively speaking on the hair thing, of course) when Red walked into my office and said three magic words that helped me believe that there might be a light at the end of the tunnel; Thunder in the Hill Country...Yes, of course, I know that that is more than three words (I just counted them) but there are only three that count; thunder, hill and country.

Thunder in the Hill Country is one of the rallies put on by Mike Murphy and the folks at Biker Rallies of Texas.  I had not had the pleasure of attending one of their rallies before but from what I had heard and read these folks know how to throw a party.  Add in the location, Bandera, right in the middle of some of the best roads in Texas and it seemed like the perfect antidote for what was ailing me.  Wonderful Wife agreed and had nothing specific planned for me that weekend so it was off to the Internet to pre-register and get a free T-Shirt for doing so!

Before more than a handful of days the trip was booked, the route planned, supplies (rum, bungee cords, a tent and a sleeping bag) purchased and all was good to go.  Well except for a minor little thing called work.  We have had a lot of issues in my area this year and the week before the rally another one popped up.  It was a major one with major visibility and lots of coordination would be required to resolve the it in a timely fashion and get management off our backs so it was really looking like I would have to miss out.  Fortunately for me, I work with some great folks and one of them stepped up to make sure everything went smoothly and to keep management informed.  Thanks to him, we'll call him Coast Guard, I was able to go although there was a little more work along the way there and back than I was hoping for but you have to take what you can get, right?

By the way, thanks again, man.

So, I loaded up the Sporty and headed out.

Red and I decided to take old Highway 90 as far as San Antonio so the meet up spot was down in Sugarland.  As usual, I was a little late to the meet up location and Red was there waiting on me, again as usual (at least I didn't get lost this time) so we ended up heading out about 30 minutes late.  No problem, we could make some time along the way.

Once out of Sugarland and Richmond/Rosenburg 90 is a nice road.  Not a great road but a nice road.  At this time of year the wildflowers are starting to poke their heads out and make an appearance, which makes it even nicer.  It is pretty cool to see an entire field covered with the yellow of early spring wildflowers.  When we stopped in Hallettsville for sausage (seriously, there is no better camping food than dried Czech sausage or jerky from this part of Texas) and gas I told Red about the flowers and that I wouldn't mind if we could ride that road forever.  He looked at me funny for a bit and then made sure to keep at least one of the bikes between us for a while.  Like I said, I really needed a break.

We made good time to and through San Antonio even with the one required OMG moment that accompanies following Red through this city (yes, there was one on the way back through as well) and pretty soon we were through town and on 16.  Once out of town, 16 turns into a series of long sweepers and to me these seem to be the gateway into the Texas Hill Country.  Leaned over for what seems like miles at a time you pass from the mundane to the magical.  This is also about where my cellular service starts to get spotty and between the hills, curves, views and the loss of the electronic leash I really start to decompress; I feel like I have gotten away, escaped...like I am free.  Did I mention the Hill Country is a magical place for me?  Did I mention that I really, really needed to get away?

When we arrived, Bandera was packed with bikers; they were going and coming in different directions, they were parked here, there and everywhere, they were spilling out of the bars and restaurants.  The town looked like a less crowded version of Sturgis and Red was ready to park and dive in.  Being the voice of reason and ready to start drinking (which I won't do when there is more riding to do or a tent to put up) I suggested we hit the rally site and unload first.  On the way there we say even more bikes, quite a few State Troopers, who looked like they had their senses of humor collectively removed, and a buffalo being walked down the street.  Seriously, here is a picture to prove it:

We arrived at Mansfield Park, the actual rally site, to find that this was a big rally.  Not in the sense of the mega-giant rallies like Lone Star or the ROT but bigger than any other rally I have been to.  The odd thing about it was that for all the tents and RVs there were not many people actually on the grounds.  I should not have been surprised based on the crowds in town or the collection of awesome roads all around the camp ground but I was anyway.

It took a while to find a spot and then the usual comedy of errors ensued when I try and do something like set up a tent. I was almost done when I realized that setting up a tent perpendicular to a fairly strong wind was not such a good idea.  After shifting it to be less like a sail and more like a tent I found the cheap tent I had picked up was short a few tent stakes but was able to make due with a loan from Red and some creative staking.  By the way, I found the missing stakes later that night while trying to sleep...they were under the tent.  Once the camp was set up there was just about enough time to hide the bike keys start drinking before the bike games started; lemonade and rum for Red and lemonade and vodka for me.

The games were the usual combination of skill, stupidity and humor and they were thoroughly enjoyed by all but especially by those of us fortunate enough to sit near Red.  He has a great sense of humor and great timing.  He can also be one of the loudest people I know and once the rum starts to work has no qualms about sharing all of those qualities with as many people as possible.  Which he began to do rather quickly on this day.  Before long, sitting near us (him) was the preferred seat regardless of the view.

The performance must have taken something out of him, or maybe he is just getting a little old for this sort of thing, because during the break between the bike games and the night time contests and concert Red laid out and took a nap...on his bike.

Now that is a real biker skill.  Not only did he not fall off but he didn't spill his drink either.  He is, as he claims regularly, a highly skilled motorcycle operator.  Indeed.

He...er...we woke from our naps in time to make a quick pass through the vendor booths and still grab front row spots for the concert and other such night time events.  Did I mention Mike Murphy and his crew know how to through a party?  They do...in spades.

Throughout the night his folks were up on stage and in the crowd tossing out gimmee's, beads, hats, T-shirts and anything else they could find.  Their antics along with a pretty darn good band really got the crowd going and a great time was had by all.  Red kept his position in the front row throughout the night.  I on the other hand, somehow, got shuffled back into the crowd.  Oh well, on the bright side it made it easier to get to the bathroom and get refills on lemonade as well as vodka.

A quick mention of the band, Dean Seltzer and the Redneck Mothers.  These guys put on a really good show and really cater to a party crowd.  They better since they are sponsored by Jagermeister.  If you get a chance to see them go but make sure you are in the right "state of mind" for the show.

And one more thing, when the guitar player does a crowd surf try not to drop him on his head.  His eyes looked a little funny for the rest of the show but maybe that was the Jager...

After a "bottle of lemonade and a few glasses of vodka" we were feeling no pain, well very little anyway, and after the show we settled in for the night.  It was pretty cold and I encountered a number of equipment challenges/malfunction throughout the night but despite all of that I slept pretty darn well.  I woke the next morning to the usual sounds of campsites being torn down, bikes and RVs heading out and I woke feeling much lighter.  Not in terms of weight but stress.

Cutting loose with a few drinks and 3,000 of my closest strangers had done the trick.  Must be something really therapeutic about diving for free T-shirts and coozies that are being tossed to a crowd.

The next day consisted of riding some of the best roads in Texas (repeatedly) and stopping for lunch in Kerrville as well as desert in Medina.  The banzai run home on I-10 wasn't much fun but it allowed me to fit all this in as well as a Sunday diner with the family.

Whew!  What a weekend...which probably explains why it has taken so long to post this write up.  Well that and the fact that all the stresses and strains that made me need this weekend are still there.  I just have a little more patience with which to deal with them.

Hang in there 

-Buddha